Gems of the World: Funchal, Madeira, Portugal

Panorama of Port of Funchal

Tuesday, April 16, 2011 65 degrees 5:30 AM – 3:00 PM

In port at Madeira

We set out on a southwesterly course to Madeira. The Madeira archipelago was discovered by the Portuguese in the 15^th century. At this time the islands were still uninhabited. After its discovery, the islands have been mainly under Portuguese sovereignty. All islands in the Madeira archipelago are of volcanic origin. Because of this, Madeira is mountainous. The tallest peak on Madeira is Ruivo de Santana. The harbor of Funchal is mainly used as a passenger terminal for the tourist industry.

The marine approach presents a stunning picture as the colourful and majestic Madeiran peaks suddenly appear from the blue mist. The island’s mystery begins in beauty, but the enigma is enhanced by suggestions that it may be the remains of the lost continent Atlantis. Colourful flowers and spectacular waterfalls are the spawn of Madeira’s fertile soil and perfect climate – warmed by Atlantic currents in winter and cooled by trade winds in summer. Everything seems to grow – and as if to prove the point, a hodgepodge of shrubs and flowers have been imported from all over the world. It is not a big place – the island is only 35 miles long and 13 miles wide at its widest point, but roads climb and drop precipitously from one ravine to the next, so travel times are longer than expected. Funchal is named for one of the most fragrant native plants – funcho (fennel).

Funchal is the capital of the Madeira Islands of Portugal and is also the largest city on the islands. It was founded by Gonsalves Zarco in 1421 and was elevated to city by King Manuel I in 1508. It was important as a stopping place between the Indies and the New World, and was known as a wealthy place. Portugal, located in southwest Europe on the western Iberian Peninsula, includes the Madeira Islands and the Azores in the northern Atlantic Ocean.

Funchal is graced with an unusually dramatic setting. At its back, jagged mountains – some 1,200 metres high – encircle the city like a giant amphitheatre, while its feet are lapped by the sea. The historic core of the capital still overlooks the harbor and boasts fine government buildings and stately 18^th C houses with shady courtyards, iron balconies and carved black basalt doorways. The town has steep cobbled streets and overall air of grandeur.

We toured Funchal on our own this morning. We boarded the shuttle bus into town and then walked along the harbor to catch the cable car to take us up to Monte. Opened in 2000, the two mile long Doppelmayr cable route takes approximately 10 minutes in each direction. As we left the station, the old city comes into view. As the car climbs above the city we were rewarded with sweeping views of Funchal harbor. Just below the chuch in Monte we watched people getting in sleighs powered by 2 men which takes you ½ way down to Funchal.

Monte is only 4 miles from Funchal, but nearly 2,000 feet high, in the highest part of a national park, it seems more like heaven. Austrian Emperor Carlos I is buried at Nossa Senhora do Monte, a hilltop chapel built on the site of the earlier Church of Encarnacao. When you see the façade of this charming church you cannot resist climbing the 68 steps to see inside.

We took the cable car back down to return to Funchal. The first place we visited was the famous covered market, the Mercado dos Lavradores. Built in 1941 it has strong Art Deco overtones. All the hustle and bustle of Funchalese life is here, spilling out from the arcaded inner courtyard with its dozens of stalls piled high with vegetables, herbs, flowers and exotic fruit. Head through the doors at the eastern end to find the fish market, a good place to make your acquaintance with Madeira’s famous black espada, the eel-like, razor-toothed scabbard fish that crops up on every restaurant menu.

We walked around the downtown area, browsing in the stores and then took the shuttle bus back to the ship a 1 PM.